MTU Library Catalogue

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Fashion, identity, image / Paul Jobling, Philippa Nesbitt and Angelene Wong.

By: Jobling, Paul [author].
Contributor(s): Nesbitt, Philippa [author] | Wong, Angelene [author].
Material type: materialTypeLabelBookPublisher: London : Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2022Description: xvii, 158 pages : illustrations (colour) ; 24 cm.Content type: text Media type: unmediated Carrier type: volumeISBN: 9781350183209 (paperback); 9781350183216 (hardback).Subject(s): Fashion -- Social aspects -- Western countries -- Case studies | Fashion -- Political aspects -- Western countries -- Case studies | Identity politics -- Western countries -- Case studies | Intersectionality (Sociology) -- Western countries -- Case studies | Body image -- Western countries -- Case studies | Fashion writing -- Western countries -- Case studies | Advertising -- Fashion -- Western countries -- Case studiesDDC classification: 391.0091821
Contents:
Fashion authorship, l'écriture féminine,, and the poetic text -- Written on the body : fashion, clothing & age -- (Un)Gendering the runway -- Loving the alien : fashion and posthuman identities.
Summary: "Uses influential fashion collections and shows to explore the huge shifts in identity, body politics, representation and authenticity in relation to clothing in Britain, Europe and America over the last 30 years" - publisher's description.
Holdings
Item type Current library Call number Status Barcode
General lending MTU Crawford College of Art and Design Library Lending 391.0091821 (Browse shelf(Opens below)) Available 00232206
Total holds: 0

Enhanced descriptions from Syndetics:

How has the fashion industry responded to turn-of-the-millennium non-binary identities? Do they have a supportive or exploitative relationship with queer, trans and ageing subjects? Fashion, Identity, Image unpacks these questions and many more in relation to clothing and representation, identity and body politics in British, European and American culture between 1990 and 2020.

Jobling, Nesbitt and Wong explore issues of intersectionality and inclusivity through groundbreaking shows, including Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' catwalk show for Dior (Spring-Summer 2017), Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' collection (Fall-Winter 2006), and the role of transgender models such as Oslo Grace since 2015. Looking to the future of our relationship with fashion, there's also an investigation of the android as a redemptive figure in Alessandro Michele's cross-cultural cyborg collection for Gucci (Autumn-Winter 2018/2019) and the impact of the ageing population with analysis of age and memory in work such as Magali Nougarède's Crossing the Line (2002), and pleasure and morality in fashion publicity since the 1990s for the likes of Calvin Klein, D&G and American Apparel.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

Fashion authorship, l'écriture féminine,, and the poetic text -- Written on the body : fashion, clothing & age -- (Un)Gendering the runway -- Loving the alien : fashion and posthuman identities.

"Uses influential fashion collections and shows to explore the huge shifts in identity, body politics, representation and authenticity in relation to clothing in Britain, Europe and America over the last 30 years" - publisher's description.

Table of contents provided by Syndetics

  • List of Illustrations (p. vii)
  • Acknowledgements (p. ix)
  • Introduction (p. x)
  • 1 Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender (p. 1)
  • Introduction (p. 1)
  • Maria Grazia Chiuri's 'We Should All Be Feminists' T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship (p. 5)
  • Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen's 'The Widows of Culloden' as poetic text (p. 14)
  • Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen's abject woman (p. 16)
  • Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother (p. 27)
  • Notes (p. 30)
  • 2 Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age (p. 33)
  • Introduction (p. 33)
  • 'Active ageing', youthfulness and fashion (p. 35)
  • 'Fashion For All Ages' and the new old model army (p. 41)
  • Race and reversing convention (p. 48)
  • 'States of truth and fiction': Ari Seth Cohen and Magali Nougarede (p. 52)
  • Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place (p. 61)
  • Notes (p. 65)
  • 3 (Un)Gendering the runway (p. 67)
  • Introduction (p. 67)
  • Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion (p. 70)
  • The advent of transgendered models (p. 74)
  • The abject trans-model (p. 75)
  • Between abjection and acceptance (p. 76)
  • 'Come into the (trans)garden': The heterotopia of fashion (p. 79)
  • The authentic self (p. 84)
  • Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry (p. 92)
  • Tokenism versus activism (p. 96)
  • Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity (p. 101)
  • Notes (p. 103)
  • 4 Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities (p. 105)
  • Introduction (p. 105)
  • Andrea Giacobbe and 'Simplex Concordia' (p. 107)
  • Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg (p. 115)
  • Compromising race and diversity (p. 124)
  • A 'genuine cyborg manifesto'? (p. 128)
  • Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities (p. 134)
  • Notes (p. 136)
  • Epilogue (p. 138)
  • Bibliographic references (p. 143)
  • Index (p. 157)

Author notes provided by Syndetics

Paul Jobling is the author of Fashion Spreads (Berg, 1999), Man Appeal (Berg, 2005) and Advertising Menswear (Bloomsbury, 2014). He was Visiting Professor between 2018 and 2020 for the MA Fashion Studies at The New School, Parsons Paris, France.

Philippa Nesbitt graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. Her MA thesis explores the emergence and impact of gender non-conformativity in global fashion modelling and media. She is currently digital curator for Revue magazine.

Angelene Wong graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. She is a doctoral student at School of Art, Design and Media at Nanyang Technological University, Singapore, and a dance artist. Her doctoral thesis focusses on body politics at the intersection of fashion media, dance, and digitalisation.